EXPEDITIONS

“2002 was the United Nations’ International Year of Mountains. In homage, I decided to do a solo climb. I chose the highest peak in North America, visited by nearly 1000 climbers each year.

The ascent started off well. Two days from the summit, the weather forecast was for five consecutive days of fine weather. I set off lightly equipped for an alpine climb. I took only a little heater, a sleeping mat, a shovel and two days’ worth of fuel and food. Since it was a round trip, the tent and sleeping bag were just surplus baggage. But then at 5,200 metres, with no forewarning, the wind picked up and snow started to swirl. Within an instant I was caught in the midst of a blizzard. With no way to go up or down, I was trapped. I took shelter in a little snow cave. For four days, the snow, wind, –25ºC temperatures and lack of food and sleep worked their ravages.

“But as soon as I was able to leave the cave, I had my crampons on and my ice axe in hand. Ready for a nine-hour climb. It was 1 p.m., and I set out with no headlamp (at that time of the Alaskan year, there is no night). The sun was shining brilliantly at 10 p.m. when I reached the summit of Mount McKinley. My patience, determination and positive attitude were well rewarded!”